Buttermilk marinated chicken is an old classic from the American south which,to be honest, I’d mostly forgotten about. That is until I discovered Simin Nosrat’s Buttermilk Roasted Chicken which I’ve been making almost weekly since her wonderful cookbook Salt Fat Acid Heat landed on my kitchen table. Honestly, this is a cookbook you just can’t put down. The book is as much about the joy of eating as it is about cooking. Simin’s infectious enthusiasm for food and her enlightening insights on how to cook and what to expect are gonna inspire great things happening in your own kitchen.
If you have not had a chance to see Simin’s four part TV series Salt Fat Acid Heat do be sure to do so. It is a visual feast that’s going to energizes your inner cook.
The recipe that follows is adapted slightly in that I like to divide the chicken into four parts which eliminates carving once the chicken is roasted. I’ve also included the option of adding fresh herbs to the buttermilk marinade. Otherwise the recipe is as it appears in the book. This is a roasted chicken you can count on to deliver a deeply browned crispy skin and juicy tender meat time and time again.
Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken serves 4
- 3 ½ -to 4 pound chicken
- kosher or flaky sea salt
- 2 cups buttermilk
- sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme (optional)
Remove the backbone and divide the chicken into four pieces. Generously season the chicken with salt and set aside for 30 minutes.
Pour the buttermilk into a non-reactive bowl just large enough to hold the chicken and the marinade. Add 2 tablespoons of salt and the herbs if using and stir to dissolve the salt.
Brush off excess salt from the chicken and place the chicken in the marinade. Turn the chicken several times. Seal with cling film and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator an hour before roasting.
Preheat the oven to 425 f/220 c with the rack set in the center position.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and shake off excess marinade. Place the chicken in a cast iron skillet or shallow roasting pan. Tuck sprigs of fresh herbs between the chicken pieces if using.
Slide the pan all the way to the back of the oven with the legs pointed toward the rear left corner of the oven and breast pieces pointing towards the center of the oven and roast for 20 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 400 f/ 200 c and continue roasting for 10 minutes. Then shift the pan so the legs are facing the back right corner of the oven.
Continue roasting for another 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken is well browned all over and the juices run clear when you insert a knife down to the bone between the leg and the thigh.
When the chicken is done remove the pan from the oven, lightly cover with foil, and let the chicken rest 10 minute before serving.
Note: If you don’t have buttermilk substitute plain yogurt.
Molletes are a must have for a quick breakfast or a snack on the run just about anywhere in Mexico.
The Mollete is an antequera round bread from the Andalusian region of southern Spain. There the mollete is sliced into halves, spread with with butter or lard, and topped with savory meats and cheeses. The Spanish took the molette with them to the new world where the Mexicans adapted the idea and made it their own. Molletes are in essence Mexico’s bruscetta. Usually associated with northern Mexico but molletes are popular throughout the country.
Mxican molettes are made with crusty oval shaped bollilos, also known as pan Frances, that were introduced to Mexico by French Emperor Maxmillion’s cooks. Maxmillio’s reign was short lived. He was executed in 1866, but the Bollilos went on to become Mexico’s favorite bread and sold in panaderieas throughout the country.
Mexican molletes are so easy to make. Slice a bolillo in half lengthwise, butter the cut side and toast until golden brown. Top with refried beans, scatter grated cheese over the top and return to the oven until the cheese has melted. Serve with a salsa fresca and your done.
If the thought of cooking dried beans is putting you off by all means use canned refried beans instead. I have fond memories perfectly delicious canned refried beans on numerous camping trips.
You are probably thinking to yourself, it’s just beans on toast, so what’s the big deal?” Well, you’re just going to have to trust me on this one. This is an addictive taste of Mexico you are going to be making again and again, and again I promise you.
Molletes: serves 4
- 4 bolillos or other oval shaped crusty rolls, sliced in half lengthwise
- 2 tablespoons butter at room temperature
- 1 garlic clove peeled
- 2 cups refried beans (click here for recipe), or canned
- 1 ½ cups shredded cheese; a Mexican cheese if available, or provolone,or Monterrey Jack
- salsa fresca (see recipe below)
Preheat oven to 375 f/ 190 c
Slice the bolillos lengthwise and place them on a baking tray cut side facing upward. Spread butter evenly over the cut side surfaces and transfer the baking tray to the oven and bake until the surface is a light golden brown, about 12 to 15 minutes.
Remove the tray from the oven and rub the garlic clove over the toasted surface. Discard the remaining garlic.
Spread the refried beans over the bollilos generously and top with shredded cheese.
Turn the broiler on in the oven and move the oven rack to the upper position. Place the tray of molletes under the broiler and broil until the cheese is melted and lightly colored.
Serve at once with a spicy salsa fresca
Salasa Fresca with Roasted Radishes makes about 2 cups
This is a a favorite Salas Fresca with a hint of smoky flavor and earthy heat from the radishes.
Prepare the salsa at least an hour before serving and chill.
- 6 radishes, flame roasted
- 2-3 jalapeno chiles, flame roasted
- 1 medium size onion flame roasted
- 4 tomatoes, flame roasted
- 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
- 2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
- 1 teaspoon sea salt + more to taste
Heat up an outdoor grill or place a grill rack over a gas burner on the stove top.
Place the radishes, jalapenos, onion, and tomatoes over the hottest part of the grill, or flame on the stove top, and grill all until the skin is charred and blistered on all sides. Transfer to a large bowl and cover with cling film and set aside to sweat.
Once cool enough to handle rub or peel away the charred skin of all.
Slice the radishes and then dice and transfer to a non-reactive bowl.
Slice the jalapenos open lengthwise and remove the seeds and veins. Slice into thin strips and then dice, and add to the bowl.
Remove the outer layer of the onion, dice, and add to the bowl.
Slip the skin off the tomatoes and quarter them. Remove seeds, dice. and add to the bowl.
Add the chopped cilantro, lime juice, and salt and stir to combine. Taste and add more lime juice and salt if needed.
Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
At last, with the arrival of spring crops coming to market, it is time to let green produce be the star attraction. By that I mean salads composed using the freshest greens along with some early baby green beans, freshly picked herbs, and crisp sliced radishes tossed with an herb vinaigrette to really savor the fresh flavors of spring. I always gravitate towards the subtle anise like flavor of fresh French tarragon accented with a hint of lemon in a vinaigrette that pairs beautifully with freshly picked garden greens.
For this salad I have used a combination of leafy greens as well as a deep green curly leaf kale, but use any fresh greens that are available.
For the vinaigrette, use fresh French Tarragon leaves if available. Tarragon has been loved by French cooks for centuries for its fresh clean subtle flavor and aroma. The small yellow flowers are edible by the way so do include them in the salad . Otherwise a good quality dried French tarragon will be just fine.
I like to make the vinaigrette a day in advance so that the flavors have a chance to coalesce.
Fresh Tarragon Vinaigrette: makes 6 oz/ ¾ cup
- 1 ½ teaspoon grated (microplaned) shallot
- 1 teaspoon mustard powder
- 1½ teaspoons minced fresh French tarragon leaves; or ¾ teaspoon dried
- ½ teaspoon sea salt + more to taste
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
- ½ cup white wine vinegar
- ½ cup light olive oil
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- ¾ teaspoon minced lemon zest
- pinch of sugar
Combine all the ingredients in a jar and shake vigorously until the vinaigrette is emulsified.
Alternately, You can combine the shallots, mustard powder, tarragon, salt, pepper, and vinegar in a non reactive bowl and whisk to combine. Then begin adding the olive oils in a slow steady stream while whisking vigorously until the vinaigrette is emulsified. Then add the lemon zest and sugar and whisk until combined.
Ideally, cover and refrigerate the vinaigrette for 24 hours before using.
For the salad:
- assorted leafy greens
- curly leaf kale
- baby green beans (haricot vert)
- radishes, thinly sliced
- fresh herbs; marjoram, oregano, or lemon thyme
- freshly grated Parmesan
- flaked sea salt
- freshly ground pepper
If you are using kale, remove the center rib from the leaves and discard. Tear the leaves and place them in a steamer basket.
Trim the green beans and place them in the steamer basket along with the kale. Set the steamer basket over simmering water and steam until the kale is tender, but al dente. The beans may take a few minutes longer, but should also be al dente. Set both the kale and the beans out on a kitchen towel and cool. Once cool refrigerate both until you are ready to assemble the salad.
Assembling the salad:
Place the greens, including the chilled kale leaves, in a large bowl and toss to combine. Then add the green beans on top. Spoon a few teaspoons of the vinaigrette over all and toss to combine.
Transfer the mixed greens and beans to individual salad plates. Tuck the radish slices randomly into the greens. Spoon more vinaigrette over all sparingly. Lightly grate the Parmesan over the salads and serve.
Place a small bowl of additional dressing on the table along with the crystallized sea salt and a pepper mill.
This is a Key lime tart I’ve been making for 30 some years that never fails to please and it couldn’t be easier to make. There is no baking involved so the tart can be completed in less than an hour. The filling is a simple fresh lime curd that is then poured into a crumb crust and refrigerated…and Voila!
The Florida Keys, and Key West in particular, have enjoyed a legendary notoriety associated with the novelist Ernest Hemingway and a bunch of his famous, as well as infamous, cronies that used to hang out until the wee hours of the morning at Sloppy Joe’s and Captain Tony’s in Key West in the 30’s and 40’s. So, by association, the Key lime pie is fondly embraced as an American classic with a smooth creamy custard like filling made with Florida Key lime juice and sweetened condensed milk. The sweetened condensed milk adds a certain element of decadence to the pie, but I myself much prefer the unadulterated flavor of lime curd filling just as it is.
While the Key lime certainly holds a certain cache, this type of lime is easily found throughout the West Indies, Mexico, and as far afield as Thailand. Obviously certified Key limes are going to be hard to find, so when you go shopping what you want to look out for are smaller thin skinned limes which will have a more acidic intense lime flavor and aroma than the larger Persian limes you are probably more familiar with. Bottled Key lime juice is available, but don’t be tempted. There is no substitute for freshly squeezed lime juice for this recipe.
Key Lime Tart
The following recipe works equally well using lemon juice or try using fresh passion fruit juice. (click here for recipe)
Needed: one 9 or 10 inch tart pan
- 1 ½ to 2 cups crumbs made from either Graham Crackers or Digestive biscuits
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1/3 teaspoon sea salt
- 6 tablespoons/ 3 oz/ 85 g unsalted butter, melted
Break up the crackers or digestive biscuits into the work bowl of a food processor and pulse until you have a fine crumb. Add the sugar and salt and pulse until combined. Then pour the melted butter over the crumbs and pulse until the crumbs just begin to clump together.
Press the crumb mixture into the tart pan, being sure to distribute the crumbs evenly, so the crust has an overall uniform thickness.
Transfer the crumb lined pan to the refrigerator and chill until the crust has firmed up, about 40 minutes.
Lime Curd Filling:
Zest a couple of the limes before you juice them and set the zest aside.
- 4 eggs
- 4 egg yolks
- 2/3 cup sugar
- 1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice, strained
- 6 tablespoons (3 ounces/ 85 g) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
Choose a non reactive stainless mixing bowl the will fit snugly over a wide pan placed below it.
Partially fill the wide pan with water and place it over medium heat on the stove top. Heat the water without coming to a boil.
meanwhile place the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar into the mixing bowl and whisk together until the sugar is thoroughly combined. Then add the lime juice and whisk until completely incorporated into the egg mixture.
Place the bowl over the hot water (being sure the water is not boiling below) creating a Ban Marie. Whisk the mixture in a continuous circular motion without creating a froth. After a few minutes the mixture will begin thicken rather quickly, so once the mixture has the consistency of a soft custard like curd, promptly remove the bowl from the heat. Scatter the small cubes of butter over the surface and once melted gently fold the butter into the curd until completely incorporated.
Remove the chilled crumb crust from the refrigerator and pour the lime curd filling into the crust shell. Giggle the pan gently to even out the filling and, if necessary, gently smooth the surface with a spatula.
Distribute the lime zest over the surface and return the pie to the refrigerator until the filling has firmed up. You can then cover the pie with cling film and refrigerate until you are ready to serve.
As pictured serve the tart with a strained strawberry or raspberry puree along with a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche.