Santa Fe Burger with Grilled Pineapple and Chilies

Santa Fe Burger with Grilled Pineapple and Chilies

 

Here are a couple of hearty old favorite wintry food ideas to enjoy while you are sitting in front of your TV watching all the ongoing 2018 Winter Olympic competitions taking place in PyeongChang, South Korea.

I’ve been a real fan of winter sports ever since I was a kid and have followed my two favorite winter sports, figure skating and downhill skiing, ever since. There is something about the physical freedom of gliding over the ice or snow that defies description other than to say it is as close to an out of body experience you will ever have. When you stand on top of a snow covered mountain there is a crisp silence that sets you free just before you push away for your downhill run through the snow covered forest. I lived in Santa Fe for several years and there was Ski Santa Fe just a short drive outside of town, so skiing became a regular weekend activity. After several runs it was always great to ski up to the mountainside outdoor bar and grill to refuel and catch up with friends. The grill cooks were at their stations turning out these amazing, I’m going to call them, Santa Fe burgers topped with Grilled New Mexico green and red chilies and grilled pineapple. I guess it could be called a Hawaiian burger as well. In any case the heat of the chilies paired with the caramelized pineapple really hit the spot! You felt re energized and ready to hit the mountain for a couple more late afternoon runs before the sun sets over the northern New Mexican mountain scape.

Another hearty favorite ski season meal is a New Mexican cassoulet like bean stew laced, of course, with wonderfully hot and flavorsome roasted red and green chilies. This is food for any season, but especially perfect served in front of a fire, or in this case in front of your TV, watching the Winter Olympics.

 

 

 

Santa Fe Burger with Grilled Pineapple and chilies    1 burger

Best to gather all your ingredients together grill side and ready to go once the grill is fired up and red hot!

The green and red chile rajas should be made in advance. See the recipe below.

  • 1 burger roll of choice
  • olive oil for brushing
  • 1 small peeled garlic clove
  • 5 oz/ 142 g best quality ground beef, formed into thick patty
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon fish sauce
  • ½ teaspoon light soy sauce
  • sea salt
  • 1 slice yellow or red onion, grilled
  • 1 pineapple round, grilled
  • green and red chile rajas (strips)
  • 2 thin slices Manchego or Gouda cheese
  • mayonnaise
  • firm green lettuce leaf
  • tomato ketchup (optional)

Preheat the grill until the coals are red hot.

Slice the burger bun in half and lightly brush the interior surfaces with olive oil. Place the halves on the grill and toast, turning the bun a quarter turn after a minute to mark the surface with a cross hatch pattern. Remove from the grill and rub the grilled surface with a small garlic clove and set aside.

In a small bowl combine the olive oil, fish sauce, and light soy sauce and set aside.

Pat the burger dry with a paper towel and place on a small plate. Brush the surface with the olive oil mixture and season with sea salt. Place brushed side down on the hottest part of the grill. Lightly brush the top surface with olive oil mixture and season with salt. let the burger grill until it is deeply marked before giving a quarter turn to mark with a cross hatch pattern. Then flip the burger over and grill as before until marked with a cross hatch pattern. At this point the burger should be done with a pink center. If you want a medium well done burger continue grilling another minute on each side.

Top the burger with the cheese and allow the cheese to soften before removing the burger from the grill.

While the burger is grilling brush both sides of the onion and pineapple slices and place them on the grill. After a minute or so give the slices a quarter turn to mark with a cross hatch pattern. Then flip them over and repeat to mark with the cross-hatch pattern as before.

Assembling the burger:

Place the bottom half of the bun on a plate. Lightly spread mayonnaise over the surface and top with a leaf of lettuce.

Place the grilled burger on the lettuce. Add the grilled onion on top and top the onion with the grilled pineapple round. Place some green and red chile rajas over the pineapple and add ketchup if using.

Place the top of the burger bun over the burger and serve!

 

New Mexican Bean Cassoulet
Green and Red Chile Rajas   Makes 1 pint

Chile rajas are useful as an addiction to so many dishes! There is some preparation involved but well worth the effort. The whole process does become second nature once you have made them a few times, and, as pictured above, are a spicy garnish for a New Mexican bean stew/cassoulet

Flame Roasted Green and Red chile Rajas

Flame Roasted Green and Red chile Rajas

  • 6 whole  fresh green chilies
  • 3 whole fresh red chilies
  • 1 yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon dried sage leaves, crumbled

Place the whole green and red chilies on the hot grill, or over an open flame on the stove top, and grill until the skin is blistered and charred on all sides. Place the charred chilies in a bowl and tightly cover the bowl with cling film and set aside to sweat until cool enough to handle.

At this point the charred skin will slip off the chiles quite easily. If there are scorched flesh or stubborn bits of blackened skin left attached don’t worry about it. This will add a smoky flavor to the chilies.

Slit the chilies in half lengthwise and scrape out all the seeds and membranes and discard them. Slice the chilies into thin strips (rajas) lengthwise and halve the strips crosswise.

In a skillet heat the olive oil over medium low heat. Add the sliced onions and saute, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Then add the chile rajas and season with salt and dried sage. Saute for several minutes until the mixture is well combined and fragrant. Transfer the rajas, including the oil, to a bowl and set aside to cool. Then cover with cling film and refrigerate if not using right away. The rajas will keep well for about 5 days when refrigerated.

Chili (Basics)

Chili (Basics)

 

Who doesn’t love a “bowl of red”, that infamous hot and spicy earthy red chili stew from Texas and the American Southwest. Chili’s popularity really took hold when local chili joints starting popping up across the country in the early 1900’s. A Chili nation was born and chili has been embraced as real North American food ever since!

But hold on, beans, tomatoes, chile peppers, and cacao are all native to the Americas and cultivated by native central American peoples as staple foods along with maize as cornerstones of their diet. Stews not unlike what we now know as chili were likely being cooked up by the Aztecs long before the Europeans ever set foot in the new world. With the arrival of the Spanish and the Portuguese spices like cumin from the eastern Mediterranean and cinnamon from south Asia were introduced into the local native cuisine and influenced the evolving cuisines of Central and South America.

So yes, Chili’s North Americanization and enduring popularity is undeniable, but it is also a testament to the ingenuity of earlier native American cultures as well.

Making an authentic chili is really quite simple. What follows is a very basic recipe to build from. For me, a well made chili hinges on using the very best authentic ingredients. A stellar chili is a stand alone dish that needs little embellishment. Forget the chili season mixes, the cheese, and the sour cream. It is all about savoring the deep the earthy flavors and aromas of chile combined with the earthiness of the beans!

Authentic New Mexico pure ground red chile, ground chipotle chile, Mexican oregano, and chorizo are all available on line if they are not available where you live.

 

Chili:   serves 6

Ingredients:

  • ¼ cup cold pressed peanut or olive oil
  • 4 cups diced onions
  • 5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt
  • 1 ¼ pounds/570 grams best quality ground beef
  • 3 tablespoons pure ground red chile (New Mexican is ideal)
  • 1 tablespoon ground chipotle chile
  • 2 tablespoons toasted cumin seeds, coarsely ground
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano (Mexican is ideal)
  • 2 tablespoons pure unsweetened cocoa powder
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/3 cup tomato paste (imported Italian is best)
  • 1 quart beef stock, hot
  • 2 cans kidney beans or pinto beans (or home cooked), partially drained
  • 1 oz/28 g thinly sliced chorizo, cut into thin strips
  • 4 chopped fire roasted green chilies
  • diced red onions

Place 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy bottomed soup pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot add the onions and reduce the heat to medium low. Season with a little salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic, stir, and cook another couple of minutes.

While the onions are cooking, place a skillet over medium heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. When the oil is hot add the ground beef, season with a little salt, and saute until the beef releases its juices and is lightly brown and crumbly, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the beef to the soup pot with the onions and stir to combine. Add the ground chile, ground chipotle chile, cumin seeds, oregano, cocoa, and cinnamon. Season with a little salt and stir until well combined. Then form a well in the center of the pot and add the tomato paste, smashing it against the bottom of the pan to caramelize the paste for about 2 minutes. Then add about two thirds of the hot stock, stir to combine, and bring the contents back up to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

Stir in the beans and add the remaining stock. Bring the contents back to a low simmer, add the chorizo, and cook for another 30 minutes, or until the chilli has thickened and is a beautiful deep red. Taste and add salt if needed.

I like to serve the chili family style with individual chili bowls set out for each person. Be sure to have small bowls of chopped fire roasted green chilies (see here) and diced red onions for those who want to add some fiery heat to their chili. I love to serve my chili with freshly steamed tamales (see here) as well, but a basket of warm flour tortillas or cornbread will do nicely as well.

 

Hawaiian Pineapple Upside Down Cake

Hawaiian Pineapple Upside Down Cake

 

Pineapple upside down cake is a real American classic and I would have to say it is still my very favorite cake of all cakes. It all began when the Dole Pineapple Company in Hawaii developed commercial pineapple farming and a canning method in the early 2oth century that quickly made pineapple readily available across the nation. Then a Dole Recipe Contest winner’s recipe clinched this cake’s culinary “pop icon” status and pineapple upside down cakes were baking in homemaker’s ovens across America.

I posted a Pineapple Upside Down cake recipe back in 2015 (See here) that pretty much replicates the Dole contest winners recipe. But recently I relocated another favorite Pineapple upside down cake recipe from the Border Grill in Los Angeles that I loved and made all the time in LA and later when living in Hawaii. With just a few minor tweaks here is what’s become my moist, sweet, sour, and luxuriously rich Hawaiian Pineapple Upside down cake with macadamia nuts no less.

 

Hawaiian Pineapple Upside Down Cake   serves 6

Ingredients:

Hawaiian Pineapple Upside Down Cake

Hawaiian Pineapple uUpside Down Cake

  • 4 tablespoons/ 2 oz unsalted butter melted
  • 9 tablespoons/ 4 ½ oz unsalted butter, softened
  • ½ cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 3/4 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 can round pineapple slices in syrup, reserving the syrup
  • 1 3/4 oz/ 50 g whole unsalted macadamia nuts
  • 1 ½ cups pastry flour
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • ¾ teaspoon baking powder
  • ¾ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ cup sour cream or Greek yogurt
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon pineapple syrup

 

Equipment: one 9 or 10 inch round cake pan, very well buttered

Preheat oven to 350 f/ 180 c

Place 4 tablespoons/ 2 oz butter in a small saucepan over set over low heat. Once the butter is melted add the brown sugar, corn syrup, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is thick and emulsified. Promptly pour the mixture into the cake pan and spread evenly to cover the bottom of the pan.

Blot the pineapple rounds with a paper towel and arrange them in a circular pattern around the pan with a final round placed in the center. Place whole macadamia nuts in the center of each pineapple and the remaining nuts placed  between the rounds. Set aside while you prepare the batter.

In a mixing bowl, combine the pastry flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and the remaining ½ teaspoon of sea salt. Stir to combine the ingredients evenly and set aside.

In a larger mixing bowl combine the remaining 9 tablespoons/ 4 ½ oz softened butter, sour cream or Greek yogurt, egg yolks, and vanilla. Using a hand held mixer whisk the ingredients together until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Then add half of the dry ingredients and briefly beat until combined. Then add the remaining dry ingredients and 1 tablespoon of the pineapple syrup and continue to beat, once again scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until the batter is thick and smooth, about 1 ½ minutes. The mixture will be quite stiff as it should be.

Spoon the batter in dollops atop and around the pineapple rings. Then, using a small flexible spatula dipped into the reserved pineapple syrup, spread the batter evenly over the surface of the fruit right to the edges of the pan. Repeatedly dipping the spatula in the syrup makes the spreading of the batter easier and with smoother results.

Transfer the pan to the center of the oven and bake for 18 to 25 minutes. Be mindful once you reach the 20 minute mark. You want the batter to be just baked without drying out. The surface should be just slightly colored and done when a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.

Transfer the cake to a cooling rack and let cool for just a couple minutes, but no more or it will stick to the bottom of the pan.

Then, confidently, invert the cake onto a serving plate. The cake should release pretty much intact but If not quite, simply preposition the pineapple as needed. This cake’s charm is after all its artisanal appeal!

Paella Mixta photo: Kevin West

Paella Mixta photo: Kevin West

 

Paella needs no introduction. It is one of Spain’s most celebrated culinary exports. A Spanish rice dish that delights like non other and loved the world over. A paella makes a spectacularly colorful presentation that promises a tantalizing combination of simmering Mediterranean ingredients seasoned with distinctly Spanish herbs and spices that bring this rustic Spanish dish to life.

Imagine a gigantic paella pan filled to the brim with locally sourced ingredients from land and sea simmering over a fragrant wood fire out in the open air, wafting aromas beckoning one and all. The pleasures of Paella are all about savoring the robust flavors of traditional Spanish cookery with friends and family.

Paella is simple in concept and, with a little organization and planning, will come off without a hitch. Over the holidays I managed, along with a friend’s help, to have three paella pans simultaneously bubbling away on the stove top. Miraculously they were all perfectly finished and on the table as planned to everyone’s great delight.

For the recipe that follows I have broken down the cooking sequence and ingredients, including portions of ingredients per person, into steps which should be easy to to follow and apply to any paella you want to make no matter what ingredients you choose to use. A paella is truly a dish for all seasons!

Paella Mixta photo: Kevin West

Paella Mixta photo: Kevin West

 

Paella Mixta:        serves 12

Paella Mixta is very popular, but not a traditional paella in the strictest sense. Liberties have been taken that traditionalists would certainly frown up, but the idea of mixing seafood and meats does make a splendid feast for the eyes as well as the stomach.

Following the ingenuity of early Spanish cooks, using a traditional paella pan really makes sense. If you do not happen to have one a cast iron skillet is your best alternative option. That said, for a small investment, a paella pan will serve you very well for years to come and available online (click here).

As appealing as the idea is, cooking a paella over an open fire is not likely. The next best option is a two step cooking method that I have been using in my kitchen  for years that turns out consistently beautiful paellas time and time again. Beginning the cooking on the stove top insures that you have the much desired thin layer of crisp rice in the bottom of the paella pan. The pan is then transferred to a very hot oven to quickly finish the paella with a perfectly colored surface and moist rice in the interior.

Equipment: 1 to 3 paella pans (depending on size)

Ingredients:

  • 12 cups fish or chicken stock (1 cup per person)
  • 48 saffron threads (4 per person)
  • 3 tablespoons white wine
  • ¾ cup Spanish olive oil (1/3 cup per pan)
  • 6 chicken breasts, skin on (½ breast per person)
  • 6 links paprika sausage (½ link per person)
  • 3 cups diced onions (1/4 cup per person)
  • 12 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced ( 1 per person)
  • 2 large green bell peppers, seeded, cut into thin strips, and halved
  • 2 red bell peppers, seeded, cut into thin stripes lengthwise, and halved
  • 3 small fresh hot chiles, seeds removed and minced
  • 4 cups Spanish Bomba rice (1/3 cup per person) or Arborio rice as a substitute
  • 3 fresh tomatoes, grated, skin discarded
  • 6 tablespoons sweet Spanish paprika (1 ½ teaspoon per person)
  • 24 large shrimp, shell removed, deveined (2 per person)
  • 24 mussels, well scrubbed and steamed until opened, top shell removed and discarded
  • 1 large handful green beans, blanched and halved
  • 3 teaspoons smoked Spanish paprika
  • 3 oz/ 80 g thinly sliced Spanish chorizo, slices halved
  • flaked sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • chopped flat leaf parsley
  • fresh lemon wedges
  • aioli, (recipe below)

Heat the stock and have it ready on the stove top.

Place the saffron threads in a small bowl. Add the wine and set aside.

Heat the paella pan, or pans, and add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken breasts, skin side down and cook until lightly browned. Turn the breast and lightly brown the other side. Transfer the browned breasts to a platter to cool. When cool enough to handle cut each breast into quarters and set aside to use later.

Using the same pan, or pans, brown the sausage on all sides. Remove and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut into bite size rounds and set aside to use later.

Preheat oven to 400 f/ 200 c

At this point if you are cooking more than one pan at a time enlist a friend to help you stir the ingredients in each pan.

Using the same pan, or pans, saute the onions over medium low heat for a couple minutes. Then add the garlic, bell pepper strips, and chiles and saute until softened. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Add the rice to the pan, or pans, and turn up the heat to medium and cook the rice until it is completely coated with oil and just beginning to

Paella Mixta photo Kevin West

Paella Mixta photo Kevin West

color slightly. Add grated tomato and sweet paprika and most of the smoked paprika and cook until incorporated into the rice.

Add the saffron and the white wine and sir into the rice. Then add enough hot stock to just cover the rice and simmer while continually stirring, being sure to release the rice from the bottom of the pan so it does not stick. Continue to cook until the stock is nearly absorbed into the rice.

Repeat the same quantity of stock to just cover the rice and cook, stirring continuously, until the stock is once again absorbed. Taste the rice to test for texture. Ideally the rice should be cooked until soft, but a little on the al dente side.

With that in mind, you may need to continue with another cycle, adding stock to the rice and cooking until you reach the right consistency for the rice.

Once the rice is the right consistency there is no need for further stirring. You want the rice in the bottom of the pan to develop a crisp base.

Add the browned chicken to the pan and push it into the rice until just the top is visible.

Likewise add the sausage, again pushing it into the rice until just visible. Then add the chorize partially pushed into the rice but leaving half still visible.

At this point add just enough stock to just reach the surface of the rice.

Cook for about 10 to 12 minutes and then add the shrimp gently nestled into the rice with most of the body exposed. Position the mussels over the surface around the shrimp. Tuck in the green beans between the shrimp and mussels. Lightly season the surface with sea salt and light dusting of smoked paprika.

If the rice is looking dry around the edges of the pan add a little more stock until just visible. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and cook about 10 minutes or just until the surface is lightly colored.

Serving:

Remove the paella from the oven. Garnish with a light scattering of parsley and transfer to the table while still piping hot.

Serve with lemon wedges and Aioli.

Delicioso! photo: Paul Milton

Delicioso!

Aioli:  makes 1 ½ cups

  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated/ microplaned
  • ½ teaspoon flaked sea salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 cup olive oil
  • 10 saffron threads soaked in 1 tablespoon hot water

Place the garlic, salt, pepper, and lemon juice in a food processor and pulse until the ingredients are combined.

With the motor running very slowly add the olive oil. As the mixture thickens stop the machine and scrape down the sides of the work bowl, then continue adding the remaining olive oil with the machine running. Once the aioli is thick and emulsified slowly add the saffron and hot water until combined.

Taste and adjust salt and pepper to taste.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve.

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