Indian
from Nigella Lawson’s new book  Cook, Eat, Repeat
Nigella’s recipe for Fish Stick Bhorta, inspired by controversial British journalist and political activist Ash Sarkar’s Fish Finger Bhorta, is
sure to dust up some controversy of its own in the media, but no matter. Nigella has this uncanny way with words that turn her books and recipes into a page turners! Her inquisitive enthusiasm for food and cookery is nothing short of compelling for anyone who loves to cook and eat.
I am sure you are asking yourself, as did I, what is a Bhorta anyway? The short answer is a Pakistani, Bangladeshi, or Indian highly seasoned mashed up of vegetables stir-fried together in mustard oil. That description is most likely not going to convince you to give this recipe a try, but I was won over on the first go around.
Cook, Eat, Repeat was written during the pandemic and focuses on inventive home coked meals for one or two people, with ample leftovers, made with what is on hand. Cooking your way through a year of relative isolation has had its challenges as well as its rewards for all of us. But having had the time to experiment, savor, and reflect on how and what we eat and how we prepare our food enriched our daily lives during a year of uncertainty. Â
Fish Stick Bhorta
Serves 2 with some leftovers
For the pickled onions, make in advance
- ½ red onion
- red wine vinegar or lime juice
Make your pink-pickled onions as far in advance as you can: at least 2 hours and up to 24. Cut your red onion in half- or use a whole onion if you prefer, as you will easily find yourself adding them to much else- into fine half moons. Put these in a jar with a lid, or simply into a bowl that you can cover. Pour over red wine vinegar (or lime juice) pressing down the onions until they are all just immured. Put the lid on the jar or cover the bowl and leave the onions to steep.
For the Bhorta
- 2 regular onions (approx. 10 ounces)
- 2 small red (birds eye) chiles
- 2 fat cloves of garlic
- 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
- 12 fish sticks
- 3 tablespoons cold pressed vegetable oil
- 2 tablespoons English mustard ( Colman’s) from a jar
- 2 teaspoons flaky sea salt or kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon fine sea salt)
- 4 oz young spinach
- 1 lime
- 2 tablespoons roughly chipped cilantro, plus more to serve
preheat the oven to 425 f
Peel and slice your 2 regular onions into fine half moons, seed the chiles (or not if you prefer) and slice them thinly, and peel the garlic. Peel the ginger and grate it finely to give 1 tablespoonful.
When the oven is hot, and your ingredients are assembled and ready, put the fish sticks on a baking sheet and cook for approx. 20 to 25 minutes, which may be slightly longer than the package directs, but will ensure the bread crumb coating is really crisp.
Meanwhile warm the oil in a large skillet or wok, and cook the onions over medium low for 20 minutes stirring regularly, by witch time they will be pale gold and soft.
Add the sliced chiles and cook, string all the while, for 3 minutes, then stir in the grated ginger, minced or grated garlic, and cook, still stirring, for another 2 minutes. Spoon in the mustard and salt, stirring to combine, then add the spinach leaves and let them wilt in the pan for 2- 3 minutes, stirring regularly, then squeeze in the juice of the lime.
Take the pan off the heat while you get the fish sticks. Break them up a bit with a spatula then add them to the frying pan or wok. Toss everything together, breaking up them up further and mashing them into the frying pan, then sprinkle in the cilantro.
Serve topped with the pink-pickled onions, adding extra chopped cilantro if wished.
Gobhi Panch Phoron: Indian and Bangladeshi Spiced Cauliflower
This is an ideal light yet abundantly flavorful vegetarian dish to consider when putting together summer meals for family and friends. Traditionally Gobhi Panch Phoron is usually served with yellow rice, a dal, and some pickled vegetables, but this dish also pairs beautifully with a selection of summery western style vegetables, grains, and salads.
A trip to your local spice purveyor may be required, but otherwise the preparation for this dish is a breeze. In no time at all there is a heady aroma of exotic sizzling seeds wafting through the kitchen and brilliant turmeric hued cauliflower florets dancing away in a hot skillet. This is fun and lively cookery that delivers some light and spicy Indian taste bites that are sure to please! Â
Panch Phoron seed mixture is the flavor base for this dish, but the seeds are also rich in vitamins, minerals, and anti-oxidants. Cumin seeds have an earthy flavor and aid in digestion. Anise seeds are aromatic with a slight sweetness. Mustard seeds are hot and pungent. Nigella seeds have a peppery smokey flavor. Fenugreek seeds are aromatic with a slight bitterness. The combined seeds are sizzled together in hot oil that unleashes their flavors and aromas before other ingredients are added to the pan, and sauteed.
Make the Panch Phoron seed mixture before you start cooking.
Panch Phoron
- 2 tsp. cumin seeds (jerra)
- 2 tsp. anise seeds (saunf)
- 2 tsp. mustard seeds ( sarson)
- 2 teaspoons nigella seeds (kalongi)
- 2 tsp. fenugreek seeds (methi)
Combine the seeds and store in a jar with a tight fitting lid.
Gobhi Panch Phoron  serves 4
- 1 medium size cauliflower, separated into florets
- 8 oz green beans (optional)
- 2 ½ teaspoons Panch phoron
- 3 tablespoons neutral flavored vegetable oil
- 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 inch knob fresh ginger, peeled, thinly sliced and minced
- 5 garlic cloves, peeled, and minced
- 1-2 fresh green chilies, seeds removed, finely diced
- 1 teaspoon sea salt + more to taste
- 1/4 to ½ teaspoon red chile flakes
- ¼ cup water
- 1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter) or butter
- fresh coriander leaves for garnish
I prefer steaming the cauliflower and green beans separately, both al dente, before proceeding with the cooking for this recipe.
Select a wide skillet or a wok with a lid and set it over medium heat. Add the oil to the pan and when hot add the panch phoron seed mixture. Using a wooden spatula, give the seeds a quick stir and then promptly cover with the lid as the seeds will immediately start sizzling and then popping, the seeds rapidly bouncing off the lid. Once the popping stops remove the lid and add the onions. Lower the heat slightly and saute while stirring until the onions are wilted, about 5 minutes.
Add the ginger, garlic, and green chilies and stir while sauteing another 2 minutes. Add a teaspoon of sea salt and the red chile flakes and stir until well combined.
Add the cauliflower florets and green beans (if using) and cook while continuously turning the vegetables for about 5 minutes. You will notice the pan drying out so it is important to keep the vegetables moving so they do not burn or stick to the bottom of the pan.
Then add the water and deglaze the pan using the wooden spatula, releasing any bits sticking to the bottom of the pan. Once the contents of the pan are bathed with the deglazed liquid add the ghee (or butter) and fold it into the ingredients until the vegetables are evenly glazed.
Taste and add salt if needed.
Serving:Â Â Â Spoon the Gobi Panch Phoron into a serving dish, garnish with coriander leaves and serve.
Masoor (split red lentil) Dhal
Revisiting dhals, this time using what are commonly called red lentils, which are split masoor lentils as apposed to whole (see here).
The recipe that follows uses split masoor lentils, sans skin, that reveals their brilliant red hue. As you can see when cooked they are very soft and suspended in a rich soupy broth. This is one of the most popular dhals in India and found on most Indian restaurant menus. It cooks up quickly and has an irresistible universal “comfort food†appeal. I think you will find yourself cooking them up, as I have, and serving them with South Asian meals as well as with “mash upsâ€, not to be confused with fusion, meals as well.
Split Red Lentils (Masoor Dhal)
Masoor Dhal: serves 4
- 1 cup/8oz split masoor (red) lentils
- ½ teaspoon ground turmeric powder
- ½ cup minced shallots
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 4 cups of water + more as needed
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- 2 small dried red chillies, whole
- 1 teaspoon chickpea flour (optional)
- 1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter) or unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon panch phoron (5 spice mix) See recipe below.
- 1/8 teaspoon grated or powdered asafoatida/hing (optional) See note below.
- Fresh coriander leaves for garnish (optional)
Rinse the lentils well and place them in a large sauce pan along with the turmeric, shallots, and garlic. Place over medium heat, bring to a boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Skim off any foam that has formed on the surface and discard. Lower the heat to a simmer and stir in the sea salt and add the whole dried chillies. Cover the pan with a lid and gently simmer for 15 minutes, stirring several times.
Test the lentils to see if they have softened. Stir in the chickpea flour if using and continue to cook, adding just a little water if needed, until the lentils are soft and the liquid has reduced and thickened to a soupy consistency; about 10 to 12 minutes.
Place the ghee (or butter) in the bowl of a metal ladle and hold it over a burner or flame until it is melted and bubbling rapidly. Add the five spice mix and swirl the ladle until the spices are tempered and releasing a rich toasted aroma; about 45 seconds. Then carefully lower the ladle into the center of the simmering lentils. It will sizzle at first. When the sizzling has stopped stir the contents into the lentils. Add the asafoetida (if using) and stir to combine. Continue to simmer for five minutes, then remove from the stove, cover with the lid, and set the pan aside to steep for 20 minutes.
Serving:Â Remove the whole chillies from the dhal before serving or use them as a garnish with a warning to the chile adverse. They are hot! Garnish with fresh coriander leaves.
Suggested: Pair with plain unseasoned steamed spinach. A match made in heaven!Â
Panch Phoron ( 5 spice mix)
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1 teaspoon nigella seeds (black cumin)
- 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
Combine the whole seeds and store in an airtight jar. Used whole and either tempered in sizzling ghee or dry roasted to release and the flavors.
Note: asafoetida is made from the dried gum of a rhizome in south Asia. It is used as a flavor enhancer and digestive aid that is purported to reduce flatulence. Available in South Asian markets.
Masoor Dhal
Dhal is the Sanskrit verb “to split.†In South Asian cookery it generally refers to dried split pulses such as split peas, beans, as well as split or whole lentils.
Dhal also refers to a South Asian thick stew prepared from pulses that are usually eaten with rice and flat breads that accompany a meal.
There are many varieties of pulses used in South Asian cookery including:
- toor dhal, split yellow pigeon peas
- chana dhal, split chickpeas
- yellow dhal, split yellow peas
- mung dhal, split mung beans
- urad dhal, split black lentils
- masoor dhal, split or whole reddish brown lentils
Confused? Not to worry. A trip to a local Indian shop is your best bet for finding a wide variety of pulses to choose from. Buy a few varieties to familiarize yourself with their qualities when cooked at home. Generally, whole pulses, which retain the outer skin, will keep their shape when cooked while split pulses, with outer skin removed, will breakdown when cooked. It really depends what end result you have in mind. Dhals vary in texture dependent on type and length of cooking time. They can be very soft in a soupy broth to just soft in a thicker broth. It really comes down to what your personal preferences and applications are.
In the recipe that follows I used whole deep reddish brown masoor lentils. As you can see when cooked they remain in tact suspended in a rich thick broth. Feel free to use pulses that are available to you. The results will be equally satisfying.
Sabut Masoor Dhal, whole
Sabut Masoor Dhal:Â Â Â serves 4
- 1 cup/8oz whole masoor (reddish brown) lentils
- ½ teaspoon ground turmeric powder
- ½ cup minced onion
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- 4 cups of water + more as needed
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- 3 small dried red chillies, whole
- 2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter) or unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon panch phoron (5 spice mix) See recipe below.
- 1/8 teaspoon grated or powdered asafoatida/hing (optional) Â See note.
Pick through the lentils and rinse well. Place them in a large sauce pan along with the turmeric, onions, and garlic. Place over medium heat, bring to a boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Skim off any foam that has formed on the surface and discard. Lower the heat to a simmer and stir in the sea salt and add the whole dried chillies. Cover the pan with a lid and gently simmer for 30 minutes, stirring several times.
Test the lentils to see if they have softened. Cooking time can vary greatly depending on the age of the lentils. If they are not soft, add more water and continue to cook until the lentils are soft, but still in tact for this recipe. Ideally the water will have been mostly absorbed by the time the lentils have finished cooking.
Place the ghee (or butter) in the bowl of a metal ladle and hold it over a burner or flame until it is melted and bubbling rapidly. Add the five spice mix and swirl the ladle until the spices are tempered and releasing a rich toasted aroma; about 45 seconds. Then carefully lower the ladle into the center of the simmering lentils. It will sizzle at first. When the sizzling has stopped stir the contents into the lentils. Add the asafoetida (if using) and stir to combine. Continue to simmer for five minutes, then remove from the stove, cover with the lid, and set the pan aside to steep for 20 minutes.
Serving:Â
Remove the whole chillies from the dhal before serving or use them as a garnish with a warning to the chile adverse. They are hot! Garnish with fresh coriander leaves.
Suggestion:Â Try scattering the cold lentils over a fresh greens salad tossed with a lime coriander leaf vinaigrette!
Sabut Masoor Salad
Panch Phoron ( 5 spice mix):
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1 teaspoon nigella seeds (black cumin)
- 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
Combine the whole seeds and store in an airtight jar. Used whole and tempered in sizzling ghee or dry roasted to release and the flavors.
Note: asafoetida is made from the dried gum of a rhizome in south Asia. It is used as a flavor enhancer and digestive aid that is purported to reduce flatulence. Available in South Asian markets.
