Sweets
Festive Alternatives for Holiday Entertaining
A tropical snowstorm on a cake stand is about as close as we’re going to get to a blizzard here in Thailand, but why not seize on a wintry recollection as a flourishing finale for a holiday feast with fanciful swirls of marshmallow drifts atop a cake layered with fresh pineapple and mango and light flurry of toasted coconut.
‘Tis the season to pull out all the stops in the kitchen, cook up storm, and share the pleasures of good food at celebratory gatherings and festive homey meals with family and friends !
Tropical Cake with Mango and Pineapple
Fruit filling:
- 1 whole pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced
- 2Â mangoes, peeled and diced
- 2 cups fresh squeezed orange juice
- 2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice
- 2 tablespoons super fine sugar
- 1/8 teaspoon sea salt
- 2 tablespoons + 1 ½ teaspoons corn starch
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
Combine the orange juice, lime juice, sugar, and salt in a saucepan. Stir in the cornstarch until dissolved. Place the saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil while stirring. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, while stirring, until thickened. Remove from the heat and cool for 10 minutes. Stir in the vanilla and add the diced pineapple and mango and stir until well combined. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
Cake: preheat oven to 350F/180C Â Prepare 2 8 inch cake pans lined with parchment circles cut to the size of the bottom of the pan. Lightly grease the parchment circles and the sides of the pans.
- 4 0z/125 g unsalted butter at room temperature
- Â 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 2 cups cake flour
- 3 ½ teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
-  1 ½ cups super fine sugar
- ½ cup milk
- ½ cup Greek yogurt
- 4 egg whites, unbeaten
- ½ teaspoon orange extract
- zest of 1 orange
With the mixer fitted with the paddle attachment beat the butter until soft and creamy. Add the vanilla and beat until combined.
Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar together. Combine the milk and yogurt and stir until combined and smooth.
With the mixer running at medium speed add the dry ingredients and milk/yogurt mixture to the whipped butter alternately. Once combined turn the mixer up to high speed and add the egg whites (unbeaten), orange extract, and orange zest and continue to beat for 2 minutes. The mixture may look slightly curdled which is OK!
Pour the batter into the prepared cake pans and place in the oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Test by inserting a thin skewer into the center of the cake. If the skewer is clean when removed the cake is finished. Set the cake layers on a cooling rack until cool.
Marshmallow frosting:
- 1 ½ cups super fine sugar
- 2/3 teaspoon cream of tartar
- 2/3 cup spring water
- 4 egg whites (2/3 cup)
- 1/8 teaspoon sea salt
- 1 ¼ teaspoon vanilla
Place the sugar, cream of tartar, and water in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture has come to a boil. Cover and boil for 3 minutes.
Uncover and insert a candy thermometer into the sugar syrup and continue to boil without stirring until the syrup reaches 242F/116C. This will take several minutes.
While the syrup is cooking place the egg whites and salt in a clean chilled mixer bowl, the mixer fitted with the wire whip, and whip until the egg whites are stiff and softly peaking. Remove the sugar syrup from the stove and with the mixer set at high speed slowly pour the sugar syrup into the egg whites from about 12 inches above, Â in a very thin steady stream. Beat for 5 minutes until the mixture thickens into a glossy white marshmallow like consistency. Add the vanilla and whip until combined.
Set the frosting aside at room temperature until you are ready to assemble the cake.
Assembling the cake:
- 1/3 cup toasted shredded coconut. Lightly toast the shredded coconut in a dry saute pan and set aside to cool.
Remove the cake layers from the baking pans and remove the parchment from the bottom of the layers. Place a cake layer in the center of a flat platter or cake stand and top the layer with a thick layer of the pineapple and mango filling. Place the second cake layer on top of the filling.
Ice the side and top of the cake with a generous layer of frosting and smooth it out with an icing spatula. Place a large pastry ring on the top of the cake and build a thick layer of icing swirled into peaks around the pastry ring. Remove the pastry ring and fill the circle with pineapple mango filling. If there is filling left over set it aside to serve along with the cake.
Lightly dust the top and sides of the cake with the toasted coconut and serve the cake at room temperature.
The marshmallow frosting holds up well at room temperature, but you can refrigerate the cake for later use, bringing the cake back to room temperature before serving
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Hearty Fall Cookery
Tarte Tatin is a French country classic, easy to prepare and an irresistibly appealing feast for the eyes as well as the palate.  Traditionally cooked in an iron skillet, crisp apples fresh from the orchard are bathed in salted caramel, topped with pate sucre, and baked in the oven until well caramelized and bubbling up around a lightly browned crust, flipped out of the skillet and onto a platter and served with fresh whipped cream.  Essentially a resourceful French cook’s cleaver alternative method of baking a tart upside down, obviously with economy of preparation in mind, the Tarte Tatin took its place in annals of French country cooking classics.
Of course the tarte tatin method applies to various other firm fresh fruits including plums, pears, peaches, apricots, and so on. For the recipe that follows I have included prunes, utilizing the availability of dried fruits as fresh fruit supplies begin to dwindle as the end of fall and the beginning of winter arrives.
 Likewise, firm nearly ripe tropical fruits such as mangos, bananas, pineapples, and Asian pears are alternatives for a tarte tatin as the seasons change.
Pate sucre (sweet pastry dough)Â
- 8 tablespoons (4 oz/100grams)) unsalted butter Â
- 1 1/4 cup unbleached flour
- 1/2 cup powdered sugarÂ
- pinch of sea salt
- 2 egg yolks
- Â 1 tablespoon brandy
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Cut the butter into small pieces and refrigerate.
Sift the flour, powdered sugar, and salt together and set aside. Beat the egg yolks, brandy, and vanilla together and set aside.
Place the flour, sugar, and salt in the work bowl of a food processor (or bowl). Add the chilled butter and pulse until the mixture combines and looks like course meal. This can be done using a fork if you are making the dough by hand. Sprinkle the egg mixture over the flour mixture and pulse (or work with a fork) just until the dough comes together. Remove and place the dough on a lightly floured surface and take a small portion and smear the dough away from you using the palm of the hand and set aside. Smear the remaining dough and combine into a ball and then flatten the dough into a disc about 5 inches in diameter. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
Remove the dough from the fridge; allow warming for a few minutes, and then rolling out to about 1/4 inch thickness and approximately 1 ½ inches larger than the pan you intend to use for the tarte tatin. Transfer the dough to a platter, cover with cling film, and refrigerate until you are ready to make the tarte tatin.
Apple and Prune Tarte Tatin: serves 6-8
- 3 pounds (1 ½ kilo) about 6 large hard cooking apples
- 6 oz pitted prunes
- Â 6 tablespoons (3 oz/ 75 grams) unsalted butter
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
- 1 12†pate sucre (sweet pastry dough) crust, prepared ahead and chilled
Peel the apples, core and quarter and set aside.
Preheat oven to 400F/205C
Melt the butter in a skillet (cast iron or stainless steel) over medium high heat and when bubbling add the sugar and salt and stir for several minute. The texture will be course and clumpy at first, but it will eventually melt into a smooth caramel. Once the caramel begins to color, turn the heat down to medium, add the quartered apples, spooning caramel over the apples, stirring and turning from time to time. Continue to cook for 12-15 minutes or until the apples begin to soften and the caramel has thickened and rich amber in color. If you find the caramel is coloring to quickly as you cook the apples lower the heat somewhat.
Caution: The caramel is extremely hot so be careful as you proceed!
Once finished remove from the heat and add the pitted prunes and stir into the caramel.
Turn the apples rounded side down and arrange as you like placing prunes between the apples. Once you are happy with the arrangement press the fruit into the caramel using a spatula or silicone spoon.
Remove the chilled prepared pasty round from the refrigerator and place it over the surface of the fruit and caramel in the skillet. Gently fold the edges of the pasty over the fruit and down the sides parallel to the sides of the pan, encasing the fruit.
Place in the preheated oven and bake for 20-25 minutes or until the pastry is nicely colored and the caramel can be seen bubbling around the edges of the
skillet. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool for 15 minutes.
Carefully run a flexible knife around the edge of the skillet to release the edges of the tart from the pan.
To umold the tart onto a flat platter, place the platter over the top of the skillet, being sure that it is centered. Using kitchen towels or oven mitts clamp the platter and the still hot skillet together and with one decisive action carefully invert the pan and platter releasing the tart from the pan onto the platter.
If there is any fruit that may not have released from the skillet, simply remove it and press it into the appropriate space on the surface of the tart. Remember, this is a rustic country tarte so don’t be terribly concerned with perfection. Once the tarte is served any minor flaws will be forgiven!
Serving:
Serve warm, but not hot, with freshly whipped cream, Crème fraiche, or Greek yogurt, or ice cream.
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Hearty Fall Cookery
“Good and plenty†are these old fashioned country apple dumplings! Come fall, the apple harvest in full swing, is the perfect time to roll out some dough, wrap it around crisp apples popped in the oven, bathed in caramel syrup , and served with warm milk. Perfect for a warming breakfast, a barn raising picnic, or mid-day Sunday dinner just like they do down on the farm in Pennsylvania.
Pastry dough
- 1/4 cup (2oz) unsalted butter, cold
- 1/2 cup vegetable shortening (or lard), cold
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 cups + 2 tablespoons all-purpose or unbleached flour
- 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
- 1/4 to 1/3 cup milk
Combine the butter, shortening, and salt in a mixer bowl fitted with a paddle and mix for several minutes on low speed until the butter and shortening soften, then turn up the speed to medium and mix until fluffy, scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl as you mix. Combine the flour and baking powder in a separate bowl. Reduce the mixer speed to low and begin adding the flour mixture in three batches until the mixture resembles a course balls the size of small peas. Turn the mixer off and sprinkle the milk over the dough. Turn the mixer on at low speed and mix very briefly just until the dough comes together. Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface and knead several times and form the dough into rectangular brick shape. Flatten the dough and wrap in plastic film and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours.
Apples, Stuffing, and Syrup
Choosing the right apple for baking: moderate size, hard, crisp, and tart.
- 4 medium apples, peeled and cored
- 1 ½ cups brown sugar + 2 tablespoons for stuffing
- 1 ½ cups water
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 2 tablespoons raisins
- 2 tablespoons walnuts
Combine 1 ½ cups brown sugar and 1 ½ cups water in a sauce pan and simmer 5-8 minutes until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and add the butter and cinnamon and mix until butter is melted into the syrup. Set aside. Combine the raisins, walnuts, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar in a small bowl, mix, and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 375F/190C
When the dough is firm, remove from the fridge and roll out into a rectangular shape about 1/4 inch thick. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Place an apple in the center of each piece. Stuff the core cavity with raisin walnut brown sugar mixture. Draw the sides of the dough up around the apple. The dough will be quite delicate but don’t get all “fehutzed and fehuddeled†about cracks or tears which will be closed when encasing the apple in the dough. Use both hands to press the dough tightly around the apple, closing the top tightly. Don’t “fret” about what the dough looks like pressed around the apple, once baked it will look just fine. Repeat the same procedure with the remaining apples.
Place the dumplings in a lightly buttered baking pan leaving room between each apple for even baking. Pour the syrup over the apples and into the baking pan. Place in the oven to bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Baste the dumplings with the pan syrup at 15 minute intervals during baking and rotate the pan to ensure even baking and browning. Add additional water to the syrup if it becomes to thick while baking.Â
Remove the dumplings from the oven and set aside to cool for 30 minutes, allowing the crust to set before carefully lifting the dumplings out of the baking tray and placing them into individual serving bowls. Transfer the pan syrup to a small sauce pan and reduce if the syrup needs thickening.
Serving Serve the dumplings warm with some warmed milk and drizzled with pan syrup over the top of the dumplings. Â
Biscotti…Biscotti di Prato…Cantuccini, now universally familiar, but originating in pre-Roman times as a simple bread that was easy to store and transport. Biscotti that we know today, reappeared out of the past with adaptations to accommodate modern tastes in the 19th century and has been evolving ever since.
Essentially twice baked “biscuits†biscotti is dry and crispy and enjoyed dipped into sweet wines after a meal or with coffee or teas. The basics of the recipe beg for imaginative adaptations, including additions of various grains, dried fruits, nuts, spices, and zests.
Biscotti is easy to make and once you have the basics down you are can bake these delightful sweet or savory bites to compliment any occasion.
Almond Orange Fig Biscotti  Makes 4 dozen
Preheat oven to 325F/165C
- 4 tablespoons (2 oz) unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons orange zest
- 1/2 teaspoon anise seeds
- 1 ½ cup (7 ½ oz) unbleached flour
- 1/4 cup ( 1 ¼ oz) cornmeal
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup sugar + more for dusting
- 3 eggs
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
- 3/4 cups unblanched almonds, toasted and roughly chopped
- 1 cup of chopped dried figs(any type)
- 1/4 cup blanched slivered almondsÂ
Before getting started gather and prepare your ingredients.
Melt the butter in a small sauce pan and cook for several minutes until it begins to brown. Strain the butter into a bowl and add the orange zest and anise seeds and set aside to cool.
In a large bowl combine the flour, cornmeal, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and sugar. Mix together well and make a well in the center of the flour and add 2 whisked eggs , vanilla extract, almond extract, and the butter mixture. Mix everything together with a large spoon until the ingredients come together into a loose ball. At this point it is easiest to knead the dough using your hands for several minutes to condense the dough. Add the chopped unblanched almonds and the chopped figs and work them into the dough with your hands.
Once everything is combined move the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide into two equal pieces. Knead both pieces for a few minutes to condense the dough, and then roll each piece of dough into a cylinder about 12 inches in length x 2 inches in diameter. Flatten the top of the cylinder down to about 3/4 of an inch and square off the sides and the ends, creating a long slender loaf. Repeat with the remaining piece of dough.
Brush the surface of the loaves with the remaining whisked egg and push the blanched slivered almonds onto the top surface and dust with additional sugar.
Place the loaves, with ample space between each, on a parchment lined baking sheet and place in the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, turning the tray once for even baking. Remove from the oven and place the loaves on a cooling rack for 15 minutes or until they are cool enough to handle.
Reduce the oven temperature to 200F/100C
Using a seriated knife, gently cut 1/2 to 3/4 inch slices on the diagonal and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Place in the oven and bake 20-30 minutes, turning the biscotti over once so they dry and crisp evenly on both sides.
Remove from the oven and place the biscotti on a cooling rack. Once they are completely cool you may store the biscotti in an airtight container for up to a week. They are best frozen for longer storage.
Serve with a sweet wine after a meal or with coffee or tea at any time!





